I found this question which answers what to do with the chimney outside , but I am still unsure about this hole in my basement. Behind the gray brick wall is the concrete wall of my basement. The brick wall will be removed when I get to remodeling the basement.
My first idea was to simply brick and mortar the hole, but is it a good way to do this? And should I remove the cast iron ring?
Assuming the flue is not shared by any other devices of combustion on the first floor or above, you can use anything temporarily to block the draft and keep vermin out. Cut a piece of sheet metal in a rectangular shape slightly narrower than the hole diameter and a few inches taller than the hole. Put a long skinny bolt in the center to use as a handle.
Insert the metal and move it until it is flush against the back blocking the hole. You can then put a scrap of wood with a hole drilled in the center over the bolt and use a nut to secure the metal plate against the back of the hole in the flue. This will stop your mortar from falling down into the flue and allow you to fill the void completely. To make it look OK until you renovate, cover the repair with a thimble cover. One other thought. Since I've got this space right now I was thinking of snaking a coaxial cable and cat-6 into the wall and perhaps install a plate into the wall if I can.
That would make partially opening the wall and plastering possible. But again, I'm worried about doing anything like opening up or cutting into this wall.
The substance is so delicate and subject to crumbling that I may just stick with keeping it together. I'd enjoy hearing your thoughts on this if you'd like to share. Drywall is super cheap. All you need is a sharp razor knife to score and then snap for cutting. You could put up your own drywall with a drill and a small box of drywall screws.
Home Depot sells premixed mud that is inexpensive. Tape is cheap also. Ask the employee in the Home Depot drywall isle. They are so amazing and helpful!
You'll be surprised at how cheap it would be to hang some drywall, tape all the edges, then mud. You don't need to match anything existing. Once you have the mud dry, you could just paint all the walls for now. It might be cheaper than metal It would cover everything and maybe look like you planned it. And, a third idea would be to hang a curtain rod as high as possible to the ceiling.
Hang curtains all the way across; tight for a cleaner look, gathered for a fuller look. If curtains are too expense, use flat sheets. Looked around Lowes today for something suitable to use as a cover but didn't see anything. Currently getting the mother of all drafts coming in through the disabled water heater.
Happy Caulking, Katoo. My electric rate is below national average, and gas rate is above average and climbing fast. Add to that - simpler installation and I was able to move it to a more convenient location. Just curious, What are your power and Gas rates. Dollars Katoo in Alberta, Canada. So about Wow if I converted that right you've got some cheap gas! Go for it. It is also not in plain view, but thank you for your concern. You then detailed all the steps of your preferred method; 1 some sort of plate I could screw and caulk to the outside 2 then fill the hole with foam insulation 3 then another plate on the inside sounds like a reasonable plan to me.
Related Stories. Make a wide range of sturdy wooden pieces with just this little bit of know-how. Shedding water and venting air, weep holes are healthy escapes for homes. I could encapsulate the opening in epoxy.
If I ever need to service the pipe, just deal with it then. I could try to seal the hole by injecting Gorilla Glue around the sleeve as far as possible into the hole syringe with long needle. That expands as it hardens, after which foam or cement? That might prolong the time until another repair is needed. Wrap the pipe with self-fusing silicone repair tape, and then fill around it with hydraulic cement no idea whether it would work.
I can't think of another material that is waterproof and permanent, cures in the presence of water, stays put while curing under pressure, and bonds with wet surfaces. Pictures The location is blocked by a utility sink and a water heater, so it's difficult to get at the pipe, to see what you're doing or work on it, and to take pictures.
This view is the right side of the problem pipe. Improve this question. A picture would be helpful. Do you have a sump pump , is your basement a daylight walk out basement.
Your ideas could work and seal things temporary but if it is a drainage issue there will be leaks until the problem is fixed. EdBeal, good observation. The basement isn't daylight. There's a sump pump. It doesn't appear to connect to the perimeter drain, but there's a gap around a PVC feed pipe from floor drain and stairwell drain , and the gravel under the basement floor drains into the sump through that.
The property is adjacent to a community water catchment field, and the water table is often high. So there has always been pressure on these openings the water pressure isn't recent. Sounds like I shouldn't count on any fix being permanent.
Fixer I have seen two many times where someone used hydraulic cement and when that failed called us. Even solid concrete walls will leak when not sealed from the outside. If possible getting your drains connected will keep that area from leaking but raise your power bill for the sump pump, connecting them may be much cheaper than trying to seal and having it leak, would I try a foam plug? The contractor then runs a foam covering around the crack and down into a small drywell created in the floor.
The foam is then covered with a gray coating for an attractive tooled-off look, and the dry well is covered with concrete. If the seal ever has a partial failure, the foam will direct the excess water into the dry well, giving you the security you need. In some specific cases, a polyurethane seal is not the most effective solution.
When this has been ascertained, an alternative method can be applied. The alternate method sometimes used by contractors is to drill two small holes in the concrete nearby the pipe penetration. These holes run into the gap. Water is then injected into the gap, followed by a special chemical compound.
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